Asalaam Aleikum

"Peace be with you"

After a slightly difficult time in Islamabad, and departure... the first words from peoples mouth in Skardu were "Asalaam Aleikum", which pretty much means "Peace be with you". Not a single person would ask for money, nor bother me with anything. I finally felt at peace. Sure, on the streets of Skardu, you'll never see a women walking as this area is quite conservative. Though I reckon that their conservative mentality is only to themselves, not bothering of affecting others.

I check into the wonderful Baltistan Tourist Cottage, where the manager is ever helpful and bends over backwards to help you for no fee. Which was a surprise compared to Islamabad. The day is still early, so I finally put my bicycle back together, store my large bicycle box, and head off on a test run. A quick ride to Satpara lake, which ends up being a completly dirt road, with construction and headwind. I never actually get there... but as my stomach is calling for some food, I head back into town, soon realising that, as this is a conservative town... nothing is really open, expecially during prayer time. During prayer time, you can see crowds walking down the street heading to the mosque.

Once darkness sets, around 19:00 people are finally able to enjoy their meal of the day. I make my way over to Dewan-e-Khas which has an interesting dish of deep fried trout, and fries. I'm guessing that fries are an international thing?

Oh yes... it's only been days, but I'm already slightly missing safe tap water, toilet paper and plumbing... And constant electricity. Plenty of blackouts in Skardu.

"Give me money!"

I do not wish to generalize, nor state that the people of Islamabad have a particular trate. I'm sure that there are many people who have a wonderful experience here in the city, but I reckon the first words from most peoples mouth was "Give me money!" Not "Hello", "Hi" or something alongs the line... money without working seems to be the norm.

The only people that treated me with respect were the Suzuki cab drivers, shop keepers and mosque/museum keepers. Anyhow, I spent my first day purchasing my flight outta Islamabad to Skardu, ASAP. At least the PIA office was slightly air conditioned and the staff were kind enough to sell me a overpriced foreigner friendly ticket.

Anyways, the rest of my day was spend checking out the Shah Faisal Mosque which is quite a sight to see. On the other side of Islamabad, the Shakarparian and Pakistan Monument overlooks the city and is also minutes away from the Lok Virsa Museum which displays a good number of traditional handicrafts and artifacts. Anyways, by early afternoon, I'm exhasted and hungry. Oh yes... I've arrived during Ramazan which is fine, but not many shops open for business during the day. I head back to my hotel, hoping to get my energy back and be ready to hit the streets when it's cooler in the evening. Unfortunately, I awake in the middle of the night... Oh well, I reckon that I've seen enough of Islamabad anyways.

A long day indeed.

Well, not quite a single day... But my on the move adventure pretty much begain on my birthday. Getting back to my family friends at 5:30 in the morning, off to lunch with a couple of friends... my last bowl of ramen (Japanese noodles) for the next while, and then heading off to any other city for some geekish fun and Japanese curry.

I boarded my overnight bus at 23:50ish and arrived in Tokyo by 04:30 in the morning. Then took the local train into Narita airport, which took a good 2.5 hours. At the airport, I finally got the bags I previously sent to the airport, with a few broken good of course. Anyways, I boarded my flight to Bangkok, which was quite pleasant. Quite empty, so I had plenty of seats to lay across. The new Bangkok airport was quite a surprise as it was quite wonderful. Though, plenty of posh shops about.

During most of my travels, I was quite worried about not having any Pakistani Rupees on hand. Quite a venture in itself as the banks in Canada and Japan all wanted a few business days, which I myself didn't have. The airport in Toronto, Narita, nor Bangkok weren't that helpful either. Anyway, the waiting room for my flight to Islamabad was quite interesting. Chinese business men, Pakistanis and me. Probably the only traveller. The flight to Islamabad was quite uneventful, but once landing on to the tarmac, the fun soon began. By the way, my flight landed at 23:30 and I was quite tired...

Anyways, military presence from the first step. By the time I reached the baggage carasoul, plenty of people asking for money and ready to take up my time. Fortunately, I found a money exchange still open, got some Rupees, and ventured out of the airport, which was either very courageous or stupid of me. If you travel with a single backpack, you can easily get around. But, if you're loaded with a big bicycle box, huge duffle bag, and a backpack.. your mobility is quite limited.

Well, I grabbed a cab into town, trying to get to my hotel, but alas.. this cab driver just refused to go where I wanted to. So, of course I end up at some shoddy hotel, still demanding to go elsewhere, but what the feck am I to do with all this luggage taken as hostage. The shoddy hotel is actually listed on the LP guide, though the price they quoted was 3 times the amount. Even after showing them the page, and their price listing, I just wanted to get some privacy and rest. Who the feck pays $50US a night for a crap place with no toilet paper or hot water? Sure, they keep quoting how the posh hotels in Islamabad cost more, yeah at least they have hot water and toilet paper.

Anyways, even after checking-in, after some negotiaton, I try to rest up, but the crowds just keep the noise going and I'm ready to leave Islamabad already.

Off I go...

Well, as always... it's been a few months since I've posted anything on this bloody site.

I've been back in Canada for the past 5 weeks, and I figured that during that time, I'd find some time to sit down and work on my old, barely updated website www.crazypaul.com but alas, I spent close to 3 weeks travelling across Canada with my folks (did you know that it's a 4 day drive from southern Ontario to Vancouver Island?) and then catching up with great friends, socializing and also spending endless days finally unpacking boxes of crap I've mailed home for the past decade. Plenty of boxes filled with useless junk from high school, university and random things from my past travels. I finally discarded binders and boxes of homework and tests from my past, and spent time clearing my parents basement.

(did you know that you can make a few hundred of dollars for scrap metal when you separate and take, cables, brake rotor, aluminium to the scrap yard? )

Anyways, I'm back in Japan right now, and on Wednesday I'll be flying out of Narita airport and making my way over to Islamabad, Pakistan. My plan at the moment is to spend a few nights in Islamabad, (I get in at 0:30 Thursday morning, probably won't get into town until 2am... great, into a new country and new city at 2am, and not even sure if my budget hotel reservation is good) get my bearings, purchase a plane ticket to Skardu, Northern Areas of Pakistan and then start cycling.

I'll be in Pakistan for only 5 weeks, spending about 4 weeks of it in Northn Pakistan. From Skardu, I hope tp cycle over to the KKH (Karakoram Highway), and get a bit of mountaineering, hiking done around Gilgit and the Hunza valley. For some of you who are still wondering why I'm heading off to Northern Pakistan (by the way, the media makes it sound like all of Pakistan is in trouble, it's not), the northern regions is full of mountains. And as many of you know, I love mountains and the wilderness. The Karakoram mountain ranges are there and is famous for K2 (world's second highest mountain after Everest, also second-highest climbing mortality rate after Annapurna, where I'll be going later) and for the massive glaciers outside of the polar regions.

I won't be summiting any mountains, as I'll be one my own, but I will be cycling the Karakoram highway up to China, also known as the Ninth Wonder of the World as it is also the highest paved international road in the world. My original intentions were to cycle over to Kashgar, China, but I was having some timing difficulties with getting a Chinese visa. Alas, I'll be cycling up to the Pakistan/Chinese border also known as the Khunjerab Pass (elevation 4693m/15,397ft) , and then cycling back down the same route, and taking a few side trips to view the various glaciers and mountains along the way.

By the way, the Karakorams gives access to 5 of the 14 eight-thousanders (mountains over 8000m/26,247ft above sea level) and to also a number of big glaciers such as the 62km long Baltoro Glacier (one of the longest glaciers outside of the polar regions) .

Anyways, must get ready to go. I'm currently in Sanjo, Japan... meeting up with previous work mates and friends from my days of living and working in Japan. Must socialize a bit more, before going off on my own. Must also pick up last minute tools and supplies as I'll have to totally rely on my own when mending my bicycle.

Take care where ever you are in the world. And I hope to update a few of my adventures on this blog when time permits. Cheers!